Beauty of Dewata Bali

Bali island

Sea, sun and sand are only part of the lure of Bali, which also offers visitors marvellous volcanic landscapes, a rich culture and a friendly people, says Brian Johnston.

Bali may be a mere dot on the world map but it punches well above its weight when it comes to tourism, luring millions of holidaymakers to its shores year on year. There are those who lament the passing of Bali’s original image as an unspoiled “paradise” of white-sand beaches, lush interiors and tranquil villages. Yet, while it’s true that there are swatches of coastline now adorned with concrete and shopping malls, it isn’t difficult to find the Bali that has seduced western visitors since the early decades of the twentieth century: surf pounding on golden sands, coconut trees nodding in the breeze, rice terraces piling up the sides of the hills in swathes of shimmering, iridescent green, volcanoes on the horizon, and the amazing richness of Bali’s religious, dance and cultural heritage.

Bali dance

Sure, some visitors see no further than the interiors of nightclubs – but just as many seek out the colourful spectacles of festivals and fairs, the mesmerising sounds of gamelan orchestras competing with the chirrups of insects and frogs, and the serene temple rituals that are a part of everyday life in Bali. These events are the result of centuries of cultural fusion: Hindu beliefs from India, imported observances from neighbouring Java and local beliefs that, even today, hearken back to animism.

Their religious and cultural beliefs have always made the Balinese a warm-hearted and friendly people and, if anything, those traits have only intensified of late. Over the last few rocky years, the Balinese have stopped taking their tourist hordes for granted, and some see that reflected in the generous way visitors are treated. Europeans and, increasingly, Japanese and other Asians are still flocking to the island, making up for a drop in numbers from Australia and changing the tourist scene in subtle ways.

Certainly, Bali’s shopping scene has become more sophisticated, with malls and stores offering goods of high quality that go beyond the traditional souvenirs. Luckily, though, the fun old ways of shopping still remain, with tourists browsing and bargaining among street stalls and markets – still a vibrant and enticing way to hunt down cheap clothing, sandals and gifts. And Bali continues to offers visitors a treasure-trove of enticing local goods, from silver and gold jewellery to wood carvings, hand-woven clothes and Indonesian-style homewares. 

Bali has also caught onto the spa treatment trend, and visitors looking to be pampered won’t have to look far: most luxury hotels and resorts here now boast their own full-service health spas, each offering a range of massages and natural therapies.

The most distinctive and indulgent treatment you’ll encounter here is the Javanese lulur. It originated in the central region of Bali’s neighbouring island, Java and historically, was a treatment given to the bride before a royal wedding to soften and beautify her skin. These days, the full lulur treatment is given to both men and women and is a two-hour experience not to be missed. It begins with a massage of long, kneading strokes using coconut oil infused with basil and patchouli. This is followed by an exfoliation with a paste of rice, jasmine and sandalwood. Often, these days, the exfoliation is followed by an application of cool yoghurt to further nourish and soften the skin. The culmination of the lulur is a plunge into a bubbling Jacuzzi and a final soak in a tranquil, flower-strewn bath that will leave you feeling like a Javanese princess.

Ubud in Bali’s central hill district has become something of a spa destination, and is luring many a visitor away from the coastline. The town is cool and pleasant, and provides a refreshing dose of Balinese culture in a lush rural setting. Gamelan orchestra concerts and Balinese theatre performances are held here almost every night, and the town is renowned for its art galleries, antique shops and laidback café life. Monkeys cavort in the countryside around town, which dazzles with hidden valleys and hillsides blanketed in rice paddies.

A host of tour companies in Ubud offer excursions into the surrounding countryside including white-water rafting on the Ayung River, elephant rides and cycling trips through beautiful terrain. There are also many delightful little destinations just out of Ubud, the easiest of which is Goa Gajah, just three kilometres away. Known in English as the Elephant Cave, it has been used as a retreat by Hindu priests since the eleventh century and has impressive carvings. You’ll also find rock carvings a little farther afield at Yeh Pulu, depicting fourteenth-century hunting scenes and Hindu gods.

The eastern half of Bali is not nearly as touristed as its busy southern coast, but anyone with the time should certainly make a foray to this part of the island, which can be reached on a day-trip from the resorts of the coast. A highlight is the Tirtagangga royal water garden, its stone pools decorated with dragons, demons and cascades. Ujung Water Palace and Puri Agung Karangasem (Karangasem Palace) are other crumbling royal remains worth visiting.

Several small fishing villages along the coast make good places to snorkel: crystalline waters full of tropical fish are living proof that rumours of Bali’s demise as a holiday destination are premature. The island still has plenty of unspoiled countryside and natural attractions, a vibrant culture and some of the most wonderful resort retreats anyone could imagine.